Led by a resurgent Phoebe Philo at Celine, designers have rediscovered that less is more all over again for Spring, but this isn't the mannish minimalism of the 1990's. Dresses at Calvin Klein Collection and Donna Karan billowed and frilled; there were feminine takes on tailoring at Yves Saint Laurent; and thanks to Michael Kors' cutouts and Hussein Chalayan's thigh-high slits, we also saw lots of skin.
image1 Cacharel
Game Theory
Designers have adopted a wide world of active influences for Spring. Alexander Wang's American football collection will look even better when broken down into its individual components; Pucci's Peter Dundas has combined business with pleasure, turning out sexy dresses inspired by his love of scuba; and Proenza Schouler has taken two well-worn references—surfing and skateboarding—and made them chicer than they have any right to be.
image 1 Emilio Pucci
image 2 Alexander Wang
image 3 Derek Lam
Marching Orders
The military influence was ubiquitous on and off the Spring runways (the flak jacket may even have replaced the leather bomber as the official outerwear of your MOD, a.k.a. model off duty). In fact, there's a danger of fatigue setting in before this trend even hits stores. One counter-strategy: Look for the more dressed-up takes on uniform dressing, from the likes of Haider Ackermann, Aquilano.Rimondi, and Mr. Sequined Camo Leggings himself, Balmain's Christophe Decarnin.
image 1 Aquilano.Rimondi
image 2 Balmain
Via Style.com
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